San Gregorio Armeno Street in Naples is known to collectors for its crêche figures. Photo: Angelafoto/iStock
We asked the UltraVilla team about Christmas traditions in their part of the world and got a charming postcard in response from Countess Simonetta Brandolini d’Adda, ofThe Best in Italy. In addition to providing her villa guests with every amenity you can think of, Simonetta often organizes special tours with top art historians, private museum visits, wine tastings, culinary sessions, music in the villas, sport excursions, shopping expeditions, and more. She writes:
“An important aspect of the holidays throughout Italy is the creation of the presepi, the nativity scenes that are displayed in every church and on many of the main piazzas. These can range from life-size terracotta figures to smaller handmade wooden statues. Whole villages are constructed in miniature, with moving parts and music. There are working fires, mills, and waterfalls, and thousands of characters. The area of San Gregorio Armeno, in Naples, is well known to collectors as entire shops are filled with figures and structures that one can purchase to make a precepe. Many of the towns throughout Italy also have special localized artisans who produce figures and crêche scenes in numerous different styles.”
The tradition of setting the Nativity scene in one’s own small village and populating it with local characters is not exclusive to Italy. A Provençal crêche is likely to include a fish monger pushing his cart, a baker carrying a basket of fougasses, a farmer’s wife with a chicken under her arm, a garlic seller, the village doctor, and the mayor. Originally made from breadcrumbs, plaster, wax, or crushed glass, the terra-cotta figures, called santons (“little saints”), have been created by some of the same families for generations. You can see their handiwork at the big santon fair in Marseille, which dates to the nineteenth century. The fair is organized by the santonniers and runs until December 31.
We’ve just received word that two excellent Caribbean properties are available for end-of-December bookings. The tip comes from UltraVilla personal consultant Tim Roney, who describes each of these villas as “superb”—so if you’re looking for a special place to spend the holidays in balmy seclusion, read on.
Set on the beach where Ursula Andress emerged from the sea to meet Sean Connery in Dr. No,Roaring Pavilion, in Saint Ann’s Bay, Jamaica, comes with an infinity pool, a fitness center, and a 24-hour spa. Service includes concierge, chef, butler, chauffeur, water-sports assistant, and more. Guests can enjoy the use of Jet Skis, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and an assortment of non-motorized water-sports equipment. Spa treatments make use of botanicals grown on the villa grounds. Roaring Pavilion has more than 8,000 square feet of living space and can accommodate up to 10 guests in four king guest rooms and one additional bedroom with a twin bunk. Over the years, houseguests have included Mariah Carey, Celine Dion, and Jack Nicholson. Available from December 27/28. To book this property or find out more, click here.
Bon Vivant, in Barbados, is a fully staffed deluxe nine-bedroom villa set on 2.5 acres of tropical gardens in exclusive Sandy Lane Estates. The beautiful coral-stone villa has an open-air layout and surrounds a courtyard centered by a 50-foot pool; a pleasant five-minute walk takes you to a private beach where you have exclusive access to the owner’s club facilities. Bon Vivant comes with a team of experienced chefs trained in a range of cuisines. Each of its nine guest rooms has its own private bath, and six have private outdoor showers. Amenities include a flood-lit volleyball/basketball court; a championship billiards table; a large Jacuzzi; and 45 holes of championship golf. A seven-night minimum is required for either holiday or a ten-night minimum to include both holidays. To book this property or find out more, contact Tim Roney of Villa Concierge here.
Carousel and Eiffel Tower, iStock.com/isaxar
The City of Light is variously described as a romantic gastro haven and a cultural paradise – rarely though as kid friendly. But as Ramsay Short discovers on a trip with his family, you’ve just got to know how to do it.
It’s true – Paris is crammed with grumpy locals for whom even the cutest child will be nothing more than a pest. But you can forgive this when you consider that on top of living in one of the most densely populated metropolises on Earth over 17m foreign visitors come to the city every year. What’s not true is the generally touted idea that that Paris isn’t a city for children. Plan your trip well and you’ll find a wealth of kid-friendly experiences that adults can enjoy too. And the October/November school half-term vacation is the perfect time to go.
First up – you’ll need a place to stay. There are a plethora of good hotels in the city, it’s Paris after all and from boutique to luxury, but in my experience travelling with children staying in your own apartment makes life so much easier. Two companies providing top-notch spaces to stay are Paris Made Perfect and Haven in Paris. Both have a number of fabulous and comfortable options in the city all well located for must-see Paris attractions as well as the lesser known places guaranteed to show your munchkins a good time.
Like the Musée en Herbe in the 1st arrondissement, a fantastic interactive museum designed to familiarise the young with art. There are workshops and specific events for children aged below and above five along with parents and plenty to learn. On our visit we saw clever optical and graphic abstract art from Victor Vasarely, my eight-year-old was challenged to answer questions and play with tactile exhibits, and my four-year-old ran around happily among brightly coloured posters and pictures. Until the end of November you can experience a wonderful exhibition here on Belgium’s favourite detective TinTin, great for the kids and great for us adults who grew up reading the comics. The children also loved the picturesque Rue Montorgueil nearby, with its shops and stalls offering a mouth-watering, typically Parisian display of fresh fruit and veg, cheeses and pastries that are perfect for snacks.
Even though it’s on a hill in Montmartre, the basilica of the Sacré-Cœur, the highest point in Paris, is still a must-visit. The kids enjoyed the little funicular that takes you from the Place Saint-Pierre up to the edge of the church. We avoided entering the basilica – all the children wanted to do is run about – and instead walked around it to find the lovely Parc de la Turlure, a haven of quiet just metres from the crowds. Paris is full of these wonderful hidden ‘pocket parks’, many with functioning playground equipment. The Place des Vosges, on the border of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements in the old Jewish quarter of the Marais, is a place where kids can build sandcastles surrounded by a pretty 17th- century housing project. It’s the city’s oldest and arguably most beautiful square, planned by Henri IV and where Victor Hugo lived – a nice aside to tell older children who may know Les Misérables.
Hanging out at the Place des Vosges, iStock.com/LembiBuchanan
The streets of Paris are in many ways works of art themselves, and exposing your little ones to as much of them as possible is a good thing. East of the Sacré-Cœur, where Rues Feutrier, Muller and Paul Albert meet, is one such beautiful spot – a crossroads in the middle of Montmartre but somehow cut off from the bustle of the city; you can even hear birds here. It’s worth pausing for ice- cream on the terrace of café Soleil de la Butte.
Your children may not want to traipse through a museum or art gallery at this point – and the 18th arrondissement is not known for them – but one that they might love is nearby. The Espace Dalí on Rue Poulbot is a stunning permanent exhibition of eye-opening Salvador Dalí sculptures, illustrations and art guaranteed to wow the kids with its hint of madness and the absurd.
Eating – never an easy thing with children – may prove to be your biggest challenge, but Parisian brasseries have suitable enough food as a rule. The celebrated Chartieron Rue de Faubourg Montmartre, back in the 9th arrondissement, is a good find, with professional if not overtly friendly service.
I’d also recommend Angelina in Rue de Rivoli, the gorgeous and popular salon de thé that serves the richest hot chocolate imaginable – nothing makes children happy in the Autumn like a good hot chocolate. And if you do hit the Eiffel Tower, and really if your children haven’t been you must take them, along with the views you can eat atLe Jules Verne on the second platform which is a just a lovely sky-high experience.
Of all the great galleries south of the Seine, my kids loved the Musée d’Orsaymost. We arrive one day after a pretty walk along the left bank from the heart of the Latin Quarter. The Orsay, a former railway station turned museum in neo-classical style houses the largest collection of Impressionist, Symbolist, Fauvist and late Romantic art in the world dating from 1848-1914, and although your young ones may not realise, it’ll be Gauguin, van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Daumier, Renoir, Matisse, Cézanne and countless other big names they’ll be looking at. They’ll also love running around its immense main space under the arching, glass-roof dotted with sculptures of lions, demons, angels and even a polar bear.
The famous clock at the Musée d’Orsay with the Sacre-Coeur in distance, iStock.com/barsik
For some real live animals and a chance to smell the flowers, a visit to the Jardin des Plantes in the 5th arrondissement is always fun. The botanical gardens house a small, strangely compelling menagerie while the nearby Musée National d’Histoire Naturelleis chock-full of dinosaur bones.
Missing the Musée Rodin is not an option. Next to Les Invalides in the 7th arrondissement, Rodin’s statues spill out into the surrounding garden, and the children love running about and touching them. Coffee and cake at its superb garden café will make everyone happy.
Then there’s the Cité des Enfants. You can easily lose a day in what is perhaps Paris’s best children’s museum next to the futuristic Parc de la Villette filled with imaginative play structures such as an enormous dragon slide, a bamboo maze and a garden of mirrors. You will have to drag them away from the museum space here filled huge space with many clever, well-planned, science-related activities for kids aged two to 12. Make sure to buy tickets in advance and arrive early – we didn’t and had to come back another day.
One final must do: a bateau-mouche cruise down the Seine. Yes it’s clichéd and yes it’s a touristy way to see Paris but one that is wonderfully so and is so much more fun with youngsters for whom boat rides are always magical. The glass-enclosed boats chug up and down the river and underneath its famous bridges giving you a close-up view of life along the quais of the Right and Left banks.
To say Paris is not a city for kids would be a lie. It is, and in a wonderfully historic, romantic and stylish way.
Scooting around at La Defense, iStock.com/Pel_1971
London has a plethora of gorgeous shops for collectors of all kinds. And Ramsay Short has a passion for all things James Bond, especially Ian Fleming’s novels. With Anthony Horowitz’s new Bond novel Trigger Mortis hitting the shelves this week and the 24th Bond movie Spectre out in the Autumn, he took to the capital’s famous streets in search of a rare first edition.
It’s rainy and damp in London’s Mayfair. I am wearing a Mr Porter-bought suit, a pair of Churches and three-quarter-length overcoat. Not quite Saville Row, but I do feel a bit like a secret agent. I turn into Dover Street, and there it is, a beautiful glass-fronted shop, crisp white lettering on green board above spelling out the name Peter Harrington. Dealer in rare books. Just like James Bond himself I am on a mission, not to save the world but to find out all about first edition Ian Flemings – how to identify them, their cost and why they are so valuable.
I am in the right place.
The second of two Peter Harrington shops – the first is a four-storey double-fronted property on the Fulham Road – the recently-opened Dover Street branch houses over 7,000 books arranged over two floors dating from the fifteenth to the twentieth centuries in a broad range of subjects including children’s, modern and classical literature, science, natural history, economics, politics, philosophy, history, photography, art, sports, travel and exploration.
But today I am only interested in the Flemings. I love traipsing through markets and second-hand shops in search of rare books and vinyl records. In London, I always hope to pick up an original Coltrane album on the Impulse label or as now a rare first edition hardback that’s somehow missed the seller’s eye, for a knockdown price. It’s a faint hope – the words needle and haystack come to mind. The Bond books are some of the most popular spy thrillers ever written, and remain as much today as when they were first published in the 1950’s and 1960’s. The originals have beautifully designed and distinctive dust jackets, and if you’re into collecting while by no means cheap there are still some affordable first editions of many of the novels.
Course it takes an eye to find them. Fleming wrote 14 Bonds in total all of which were published by Jonathan Cape in London between 1953 and 1966. According to the experts at Peter Harrington, the two rules to follow when identifying a first edition are that a) it should say Jonathan Cape on the title page and b) it should say “first published…” with the correct year (and no other) on the back of the title page. To be truly collectable it should also be in its original dust jacket, which you can tell is original as it won’t have any quotations from critics on it. Naturally it should also be in a good condition.
Some of the books are more special than others. When The Man with the Golden Gun was first published a very small number of copies were actually decorated with a golden gun on the front of the book. Due the print costs this was quickly abandoned so editions with a golden gun on them are rare and more valuable. Ian Fleming’s signature on a limited edition of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service are worth a pretty penny and due to the scarcity of the first three Bond books – Casino Royale, Live & Let Die and Moonraker (very few were published) – these are particularly valuable. Octopussy, Ian Fleming’s last book, had a much larger print run and is therefore much more common so good quality copies start from just £65. Apart from these exceptions the price of the books depends on their condition. Perfect copies cost tens of thousands of pounds whilst decent ones are available from only a few hundred pounds.
Pom Harrington, son of Peter who now runs Peter Harrington says, “It is impossible to give exact price comparisons for different copies, because prices vary enormously according to the condition of the jacket. However, we’ve been lucky enough to have sold one particularly fine copy of Casino Royale four times in the past few years: for £22,000 in 2002; £26,000 in 2006; £30,000 in 2008; and lastly, in 2013, for £50,000. This gives a good indication of the price trend of James Bond first editions in that period.”
So they are definitely a good investment. I review some of the copies for sale at the shop. They currently have 29 rare individual copies of James Bond books for sale ranging in price from £65 to £45,000. They also have some complete sets of all the Ian Fleming books available priced from £8,500 to £17,500.
I gaze longingly at a beautiful first edition of The Man With The Golden Gun with the rare gilt gun design on the cover – £8,000. A stunning copy of Casino Royale covered in rose coloured playing card hearts is on the market for £42,500. A 1954 edition of Live And Let Die is priced at £17,500.
Adam Blakeney, Modern Literature expert at Peter Harrington explains: “Everyone loves James Bond and these books are often the ones which people who are new to book collecting buy first as they are well-known and have fun looking dust jackets.”
In the end I opt for a 1966 copy of Octopussy & The Living Daylights for £65. I may not have succeeded in finding an under-the-radar original Fleming on the cheap in London’s book markets just yet but now I know exactly what to look for. And like Bond himself I never give up on a mission.
WHERE TO STAY IN LONDON If there was ever a James Bond crash pad in the Big Smoke it’s this Mayfair apartment. Located in the historic Shepherd Market surrounded by upscale shops, art galleries and restaurants and a short hop from HRH herself at Buckingham Palace you won’t feel more on her majesty’s secret service than this.London Perfect
WHERE TO STAY IN THE HOME COUNTIES This Cotswolds Manor is the sort of mansion Bond’s boss M would reside it when not in the capital, and staying here you’ll certainly feel like the person in charge. On the edge of a peaceful hamlet just an hour an half from London, this exceptional home is spacious and filled with antiques and fine 20th century British art. Moreover the grounds are as private as it gets with stunning views over the Windrush Valley – so don’t worry your secret meetings will stay secret. Blandings
WHERE TO STAY IN SCOTLAND Bond’s ancestral home is in Scotland and at Kinross-Shire Mansion in Perthshire, you’ll find the perfect stately pile to imagine our favourite spy’s boyhood amidst endless gardens and overlooking Loch Leven. Go deer stalking, salmon fishing and even indulge in some falconry or entertain 100 guests in the Grand Salon filled with important Scottish art. Loyd & Townsend Rose
The maze of Venice’s rooftops. iStock.com/Dovapi
Directions are good but if you never get lost you miss out on a world of undiscovered finds, says UV Editorial Director Ramsay Short
When you’ve been travelling (and writing) as long as I have, often planning every trip well in advance, there comes a time when you realise that the only way to truly get under the skin of a destination is to throw away your map, your itinerary and get lost.
Take random turns, wander up dead-ends, observe, interact with people you meet… I am not saying avoid the world famous sights or exclusive experiences – do them and do them with gusto. But if you also open yourself to the unknown, unexpected and amazing things will happen.
Getting lost works best in cities. In fact some are positively made for going missing. Anywhere with a good marketplace – Marrakesh, Rome, Barcelona, London, Venice – is an invitation to wander off and drop into shops you’d never have found if you hadn’t taken that wrong turn. In Marrakesh you’ll enjoy more cups of mint tea than if you’d stayed on the straight and narrow. On my last trip I adopted a little boy as my guide who led me through souks to discover all manner of wonders I wouldn’t have otherwise. A hidden apothecary through an unmarked door with hundreds of jars containing everything under the sun; a random weaver’s shop far away from the tourist trail; a hammam that only locals visited next to a bakery full of freshly rising bread.
In Venice’s web of narrow streets and passageways between buildings, where every other turn leads you to an unknown waterway I found hidden churches, deserted squares and sleepy bars frequented by gondoliers. In Paris I became a flâneur, indulging in the city’s famous art of wandering and was rewarded by cobbled streets I’d never seen before, foamy coffees in alternative cafés and quirky second hand shops around Avenue Trudaine.
Once in Beirut, I jumped in a hop-on/hop-off taxi thinking I was going downtown but pitched up in a little street with a tiny bakery selling man’oushe (flatbread pizza-like snacks) into which, attracted by the smell, I couldn’t fail to enter. The baker told me that the fresh zaatar or thyme on my pizza was grown in his village in the mountains – which later I ended up visiting. As I strolled round the corner from the bakery I found what looked like a junk shop, walked in and… kept walking in, deeper and deeper, discovering an Aladdin’s cave of Middle Eastern furniture and antiques.
Simply put, this stuff happens when you set yourself adrift.
During your next stay in an UltraVilla property, wherever you are, let the experts point out the must-dos, join in one of their exclusive experiences but then take a day and follow the get lost commandment – incredible adventures await.
From a Costa Rican rooftop to a Sri Lankan mountain lodge, here’ are our favourite swimming pools to cool off in this month. Words: Ramsay Short
It’s August. The heat is most definitely on. And we at UltraVilla know only the most perfect pool experience, down to the smallest detail, will do. Our standards are high so whether it’s an infinity pool with unsurpassed views or the perfect lap pool in the tropics UltraVilla has what you’re looking for.
BEST FOR SEA VIEWS
South Cove Dream, Mykonos, Greece
There are infinity pools and then there are infinity pools. Floating in South Cove Dream’s infinity pool on the Greek isle of Mykonos feels as if you are actually in the sublime waters of Ornos Bay below, the horizon stretching beyond. Located on the south side of the island and well sheltered from the wind, the villa is a minimalist designed whitewashed masterpiece with five ensuite bedrooms, surrounded by a mature garden and wide terrace. And with panoramic views, swimming to the chirp of cicadas and the sound of the sea has never been better.
The pool in this incredible Oahu eight-bedroom property lies in a private interior courtyard and feels like a jungle oasis at the foot of a waterfall. It is simply spectacular – as is the home itself – and you won’t want to get out. Surrounded by grass and palms it’s even got two of its own mini-waterfalls to swim through. Lit up at night one can only imagine the secret passages you might enter through a hidden door in the stone. And after a dip you can even watch all the Bond movies you might wish for in the fully kitted out home cinema. Course make sure to swim out to your yacht from Kailua Bay, arguably Hawaii’s best beach just a short stroll from the villa. A truly stunning property. And a truly stunning pool.
We can safely say you’ve never seen a pool like this. Casa Buena Vista is a typically Mexican style villa with direct access to a long and virtually deserted beach but its highlight is undoubtedly the three-level infinity pool bordering an open palapa on one side and the beach on the other amid pretty tropical gardens. How to better describe it? Simply look at the pictures and dream of heaven.
Designed by starchitect Thiago Bernardes this is arguably the most striking house on one of the finest beaches (Manguinhos) in Búzios. Super spacious, all wood with inspiring interior touches, at times it feels almost minimal Japanese in style and all the while fitting perfectly within its environment. But let’s talk about the pool – long and rectangular in shape, open to the elements but lined by pillars and a retractable roof and surrounded by wood decking it is an impressive piece of design and the place where we guarantee you’ll spend most of your time.
A truly Roman-style rural villa with a 180° view of the sea, Mount Argentario and the countryside, the heated infinity pool is hidden on a lower level facing the house but with stunning views of the Med and surrounded by lawns and terraces. It’s perfect for relaxed swimming, lounging and playing with the kids while the villa itself boasts relaxed contemporary interiors and a superb art collection.
Villa Oasis de Salines, La Grand Saline, St Barthélemy
On arrival at this magnificent property most visitors find themselves praying for a longer stay. Positioned dramatically in the crest of a hill surrounded by 2.5 acres of lush tropical gardens with panoramic ocean views over a canopy of trees, the six-bedroom villa will have you doing nothing less than living the (romantic) dream. And then of course there are the pools: one 80ft lap pool and one 40ft pool with graded access, both heated and surrounded by spacious decks for sunbathing and incredible views. Skinny-dip anyone?
Switch off and recharge your batteries at one of these three incredible lodges, says UV contributing writer Rachel Spratley – spectacular views come as standard.
In this modern world where life is fast and time is short, holidaying can often be a whirlwind of fitting in the sights and ticking off to-do boxes. It is all too easy to swiss breitling return knackered and in need of another vacation just to get over the last. You need a proper break – a chance to truly get away from it all, a chance to unplug from work and take care of yourself. And the key to a good restorative holiday is the luxury lodge. A place somewhere off the beaten track, filled with home comforts and stunning views where time doesn’t come into the equation. Whether you want to unwind in the jungles of Uganda, hit the plains of Montana or breathe in the sea breeze of New Zealand, UltraVilla has located the finest luxury lodges in the world.
THE JUNGLE
KYAMBURA GORGE LODGE, UGANDA
Kyambura Gorge Lodge began life as a coffee store and processing plant, before being lovingly converted into the luxury property it is today. Perhaps it is because of its humble beginnings that the lodge exudes a laid-back elegance in which guests can’t help but relax. Spend an evening out on the private terrace, enjoying a bespoke meal prepared by the Kyambura Gorge chefs and watch the sun set over the Rwenzori Mountains, all whilst listening to the chorus of wildlife in the National Park below.
When to go: The dry seasons, which run from June to August and December to February, are when you’ll get the most out of Kyambara.
Although the hip boutiques and bars of nearby town Bozeman are a five minute drive away, a stay at Mountain Home will make you feel as if you’re a thousand miles from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. High in the hills, with breathtaking views of Montana’s famous mountain ranges, Mountain Home embodies a rustic aesthetic which is as sophisticated as it is cozy. Spend the days outside on the lake, inside curled up with a book, or somewhere in-between, sipping cocoa on the porch.
When to go: With cold winters and warm summers, Montana is a state for all seasons and all types of vacation. The warmer months, May to October is an ideal time to visit, with June to August being most popular.
Nestled on an exclusive peninsula in the Bay of Islands, The Landing Residence epitomises twenty-first century luxury living. Window walls and sliding glass doors throughout the property deftly blend the internal and external, balancing the property’s contemporary feel with the beauty of its natural surroundings. Stay in and take advantage of the steam room and wine cellar, or venture outdoors to explore the boutique vineyard and private beaches which lie on the property’s doorstep. The Landing even has that timeless lodge essential – a huge log fireplace.
When to go: December to February is New Zealand’s most popular tourist season, but you can avoid the crowds and still hit the beach between March and April, and September and November. June, July and August is the southern hemisphere’s winter and this lodge is built for the cold too – you won’t be swimming outside but enjoying a fine New Zealand red next to that log fire.
There’s only one way to see the Sistine Chapel. And that’s alone. Yes. Forget the muted illumination, almost unbearable Roman heat, packed crowds and time limits by day. Join an exclusive after hours tour of the Vatican Museums when they’re virtually empty and you’ll get to experience Michelangelo’s masterpieces in all their glory as only Presidents and Princesses do, says UV editor Ramsay Short.
Francesco, the guard of fake watches our small tour group, is giving me the evils. I think it’s because I’m surreptitiously trying to take iPhone snaps of The Creation of Adam – lit perfectly by 7,000 new LEDs placed high up on the chapel’s walls – when he’s categorically told me not to.
Don’t be so stuffy I think. I’m in the epic Sistine Chapel with only Francesco, a guide and three other souls – practically alone with Michelangelo’s masterpieces. Sure there are rules, but this is a once in a lifetime thing.
Still, gazing upwards I quickly realise photographs are pointless and pocket the phone. The Last Judgement cannot be digitally reproduced, there’s no magic in the Creation of Adam on a screen – Michelangelo’s figures are dynamic, alive, and you can only truly experience that in the flesh.
Despite being a regular Roman pilgrim I’ve never visited the Vatican Museums. The queues outside – upwards of 17,000 visitors a day – and the crowds inside, hold no attraction. There’s no thrill, no moments for sublime contemplation with security hurrying you along the corridors of priceless antiquities, frescoes and tapestries in order to make way for the next tourist pressed up behind you. I’d rather spend the €16 entrance fee on a good bowl of pasta all’amatriciana and a cold Peroni.
This though, an out of hours, front-row, private guided tour of the one of the world’s greatest works of art, as well as access to normally off-limits sections of the museums (Bramante’s jaw-dropping spiral staircase, Pope Nicholas V’s chapel in the Raphael rooms), is worth hefty price tag. This is the way to see the Vatican Museums. No queues, no people and the Sistine Chapel for a full 30-minutes – something normally reserved for royals or celebrities, isn’t just the highlight of any Rome trip. It’s a highlight of life, full stop.
And the new tech – high spec lighting and air conditioning – introduced to the chapel in 2014 just adds to the experience. The LEDs balanced on a gilded rail-like structure not only make everything brighter but also protect the frescoes by using up to 90% less electricity than before. Michelangelo’s nudes seem almost three-dimensional, the colours vivid and pure. The air-conditioning system regulates the temperature and humidity in the chapel dependent on the number of people, keeping visitors comfortable and filtering out the dust dragged in and carbon monoxide exhaled.
I wander over to a corner of the chapel near the altar and look up at the ceiling with awe. I take out my phone to check the time but suddenly Francesco’s running up behind me. I take a selfie just for the fun of it with me, Michelangelo and Francesco waving his hands and mouthing, “No pictures.”
HOW TO: UltraVilla experts provide a range of exclusive and private premium experiences. Check out Homebase Abroad, Unique Properties and Events and The Best In Italy for the best in luxury Italian properties and access to personal after hours tours at some of Italy’s most beloved museums, including the Vatican Museums in Rome and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
WHERE TO STAY IN ROME: Try the stunning and gloriously-designed Via dei Prefetti in Rome’s Centro Storico.
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