Fresh from Val d’Isere: A Skier’s Report

Correspondent Daryl Grout spent the first week of February skiing in the French Alps and sent us this report from Val d’Isere and Tignes, which he and his wife, Susan, visited this year for the first time. Among the highlights: an introduction to Génépi (a Savoyard liqueur), a fondue dinner in a cozy yurt, and lots and lots of fresh powder.

By Daryl Grout

Our ski holiday begins at the airport in Geneva, Switzerland, where Susan and I follow dozens of skiers out of the terminal to waiting buses. Minutes later we’re viewing mountain scenery in the French Rhône-Alpes département of Savoy via lakefront Annecy (a UNESCO wannabe) and Albertville, setting of the 1992 Winter Olympics. Near the Italian border, after winding through a high pass in the Tarantaise Valley, we arrive at our destination: Espace Killy and the resort village of Val d’Isere.

After checking into our hotel, we step out to explore in a light snowfall. The village is a charming mix of old and new Savoyard architecture—stone, log and wood-beam chalets designed to support stone-tile roofs and tons of snow. Shops and restaurants are packed tightly in a central pedestrian-friendly core, with falling snow (and partying Brits) adding to a festive atmosphere.

We awaken Sunday to snowplows after a foot of overnight powder, and it’s still coming down! Jet-lagged or not, we’re early to breakfast then off to explore the mountain. Our inexpensive 6-day pass gives us access to Espace Killy resorts Val d’Isere and Tignes—a vast expanse of open bowls and glaciers. The skiing is fantastic, but with snow still falling and avalanche danger high, we’re confined to the Solaise area without a glimpse of scenery beyond our limited visibility.

A View of the French Alps in All Their Glory

The sun emerges on Monday and we board the Olympique gondola only meters from our hotel. Now we view the French Alps in all their glory—a singular 360-degree sensation that no photo could ever capture. All we can do is say, “Wow,” point our skis downhill and immerse ourselves in the landscape.

Destination Tignes, we follow signs for Val Claret. (Tignes sprawls over several small villages. Serious skiers stay in Val Claret or Tignes le Lac.) Higher in elevation than Val d’Isere 1850, Val Claret 2300 has an obvious snowfall advantage. With easy connections between the two areas we hop back and forth frequently for the rest of the week.

The days go quickly: breakfast, ski, sauna or steam (or both) then dinner. Our favorite restaurant is nearby La Casa Scara—intimate local decor serving Italian cuisine and wine. Here we discover Génépi, a homemade Savoyard liqueur infused with local plant Artemisia (of absinthe fame). We also learn, from autographed pictures on the wall, that our childhood ski-hero Jean-Claude Killy grew up in this very neighborhood.

Our favorite ski area is the Glacier du Pissaillas, accessed by the roller-coaster inspired Lessieres chairlift. Best mountain lunch is the tiny lodge near the Ouillette rope tow. And our “best mountain perk” award goes to the hotel ski room where friendly attendants actually help us remove and put away our boots at the end of the day.

Val d’Isere’s icon (every Alps village has a pet rock) is called Rocher du Charvet. If you look closely you can see ski tracks on the challenging Face du Charvet (before adding it to your bucket list, Google “Charvet avalanche”). It’s tempting, but we’re happy to enjoy the view from a distance.

A Torch-Lit Trail, a Bonfire, and a Fondue Dinner

Late Thursday, as if my body needs more exercise, Susan scores reservations for Evolution 2—Wilderness Evening, a popular resort activity. Following a torch-lit path in heavy snowfall, we arrive at a “secret” location, where we mingle around a bonfire sipping Kir. Later, the group migrates inside a cozy Mongolian yurt for fondue dinner. Surprisingly, an excellent vegan meal is offered along with Savoyard wine, meats and cheeses. After dessert, the way home is a four-kilometer sledge ride down powdery work roads to a screamingly fun ski trail runout into the village.

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The resort of Samujana, on the island of Samui, is planning some exciting events for guests in April and May, starting with a two-day celebration to welcome in the Thai new year, and continuing with a weeklong yoga and Thai kickboxing retreat in May. Here’s a description of both events, sent to us by Samujana’s general manager:

Songkran Celebration (April 12–13)

Samujana is a great place to visit in April because the island will be celebrating the Songkran festival. The Thai new year is celebrated yearly with a huge water festival across Thailand to purify the souls for the new year. At Samujana, we are going to create “Songkran Eve.” This has not been done before and is not celebrated in Thailand like New Year’s Eve is celebrated elsewhere, so it’s quite a cool idea. On this evening, we will create an elegant pop-up Thai restaurant in a spectacular Samujana villa. The evening will be filled with traditional live Thai music, traditional Thai dance and a mesmerizing fire-fan ballet performance. Guests will enjoy delicious Thai delicacies, served family-style, as the evening entertainment transports them to another era.

Menu items will include softshell crab and mango salad, spicy pomelo salad, fiery Tom Yum Khung (hot and sour prawn soup), Massaman beef curry, Panning red duck curry, wok-fried clams with Thai basil, steamed red snapper with chilli and coriander, mango sticky rice, coconut ice cream, and fresh exotic tropical fruit.

The dress code will be resort elegant, and we will start serving Tom Yum martinis from 6:30 p.m. as the arrival sunset cocktail. Once the sun has set and all guests have arrived, they will be shown to their respective dining tables and the evening’s entertainment will begin.

The price is approximately GBP 50 per adult with wine and drinks charged on consumption.

April 13 is Songkran Day and the atmosphere is completely different from the night before. At 11:30 a.m. a Thai long-drum parade will lead guests from their villas down to the Big Lawn, where they will be welcomed with flower garlands and a traditional Buddha blessing ceremony.

Then the fun begins! All guests will be armed with water pistols and the Big Lawn will erupt into a playground for adults and children alike. Water balloon fights, water slides, games, food, music, and even our own circus school will ensure everyone is completely soaked. Learning to juggle water balloons is always fun! A shaded “no water” zone with cushions and picnic rugs will offer a welcome space to catch your breath and relax before the next round of splashing. The celebrations will run from 11:30 to 4 p.m., and guests can then choose to visit Chaweng and continue the festivities.

The price is approximately GBP 55 per adult including food, soft drinks, wine, and beer.

Both of the above events will be included for all villa bookings of more than five nights that include April 12 and 13.

Breathe, Balance, Box: A Yoga and Thai Kickboxing Retreat (May 7–15)

Samujana has partnered with Yogarden (Koh Samui’s leading yoga sanctuary) and Andi Jones, champion Muay Thai boxer, to create a bespoke and holistic wellness retreat— a week of stretching, breathing, relaxing, reflecting, punching, kicking and living well. Through a combination of the stretching, breathing and relaxing exercises of yoga, with the high intensity workout and endurance training of Thai Kickboxing, guests can achieve the ultimate balance and decompression in the comfort and privacy of their own villa, set against a stunning panoramic sea view backdrop. The training sessions are complemented with an immersion into the best experiences Koh Samui has to offer, from island tours and a spa afternoon at the Six Senses to local market visits and luxury yacht charters. Our guests are also set nutritional meal plans which consist of fresh, locally sourced ingredients—the ultimate recipe to leave them feeling refreshed and re-energized.

Samujana is a collection of vast and opulent villas, for sale and for rent on the island of Koh Samui. Each villa has large infinity-edge pools as well as unobstructed sea views and a beautiful coral cove. The villas are different sizes from three to eight bedrooms and are ideal for families, friends, or couples. Due to the variety of sizes they are also excellent for destination weddings and other chic special events. Onsite facilities also include private cinemas, gyms, spa services, fitness retreats, tennis courts, beach access, and all the hospitality of an upscale resort. Samujana has been featured on the FT How to Spend It cover as well as Marie Claire and Condé Nast Traveller, as well as other publications. For more information or to make a reservation, contact: Samujana.

A hot new resto, sexy beachwear, a day at the races, and a performing-arts jamboree

When we asked our villa experts about what’s going on right now in their part of the world, Jennifer Allen of Altman Villa Rentals sent us this intriguing update from Barbados.

The opening of 1359, a slow-food restaurant on the marina at Port Ferdinand, has foodies salivating and is making a whole lot of Barbados farmers and fishermen very happy: Finally, they have a proper showcase for their wares. 1359 (named for the island’s geographic coordinates) combines fresh local ingredients, sourced from small suppliers, with the inventiveness of executive chef Andy Turner and his partner Roz Allen. There’s an extensive wine cellar, a no-hurry atmosphere, and a 10-course tasting menu. (St. Thomas suckling pig with pickled star fruit is a popular dish; so is king fish ceviche.) 1359 is at Port Ferdinand Marina and Luxury Residences, a new resort on the northwest coast near Speightstown.

In the “Stores We Love” category: Butterfly Boutique, a women’s clothing store in Holetown, gets high marks for its ultrasexy beachwear. Check out its Facebook page for photos.

Jennifer also reminded us that two big events are coming up in March. The first is the Sandy Lane Gold Cup horse race held on Saturday, March 5, at the Garrison Savannah (near Bridgetown). The 11-furlong track dates from 1845, when British officers held race meets on what was then a parade ground, matching their horses against those of wealthy merchants and planters. Organized by the Barbados Turf Club, the races have attracted an international following, with horses and jockeys coming from the U.S. and Canada as well as across the Caribbean. (You can read about the history of the race at TotallyBarbarbados.com.) The Barbados Turf Club organizes three seasons of horse races, and the events, which take places almost every Saturday, draw both tourists and locals and are a fun day for the whole family. The Gold Cup is one of the biggest events in Barbados, and it’s surrounded by all kinds of festivities.

The second big event in March is the annual performing arts festival in the Little Theater at beautiful Holders Plantation House (March 9–19). The 2016 Holders Season features an international lineup that includes storytelling, comedy, and a wide range of music. See the full lineup at holdersseason.com. Here’s an abbreviated version:

Wednesday, March 9: Blues and Gospel Night with the Campbell Brothers. African-American gospel music with electric steel guitar and vocals.

Friday, March 11: Judy Carmichael, the queen of New York’s Cabaret Rooms. One of the world’s leading interpreters of stride piano and swing, Carmichael has played Carnegie Hall and performed private recitals for everyone from Rod Stewart and Robert Redford to President Clinton and Gianni Agnelli.

Saturday, March 12: Miles Davis Lives! Jazz Night with Keyon Harrold. Trumpeter Keyon Harrold has worked with many of the world’s top musicians (Beyoncé, LL Cool J) and is featured as the trumpet sound of Don Cheadle playing Miles Davis in the upcoming biopic Miles Ahead.

Monday, March 14: Classical Night with Simon Mulligan (piano) and Amy Dickson (saxophone). A classical night of the highest quality, from two exceptional international artists.

Tuesday, March 15: Comedy Night Double Bill with Alex Edelman and Steve Ross. Edelman is rising young star who has wowed audiences at the New York Underground Comedy Festival and the Edinburgh Fringe Festival (where he won the prestigious Foster’s Comedy Award for Best Newcomer) and has become a regular at many New York comedy clubs, performing alongside Louis CK, Chris Rock, and Jerry Seinfeld. Steve Ross has performed around the world in every kind of venue, from cabarets to Carnegie Hall. For Holders’ comedy night he will perform his show To Wit: Funny Songs Throughout the Ages.

Thursday, March 17: Theatre Night—Hemingway’s Havana by Toby Gough. Canadian actor Brian Gordon Sinclair plays Hemingway, recounting stories of lion taming, bull fighting, marlin fishing, his writing, his loves, and the reasons for his tragic end. Musicians and dancers recreate the nightlife of Havana in the fifties, the era of the rumba, the mambo, and the cha cha cha. From the director of Lady Salsa and The Bar at Buena Vista.

Saturday, March 19:  Gala Night with Noah Stewart. One of opera’s most sought-after tenors performs his new program “So in Love,” an intoxicating mix of Broadway show tunes, spirituals, and classical music.

Restaurant 1359 at Port Ferdinand Marina and Luxury Residences, a new resort near Speightstown.

Get one free night and other perks when you book this newly refurbished villa for a 7-night stay—but hurry, as the offer is only good until Friday, February 12, for travel up until March 11, 2016. Bluff House, in St. James, has a redesigned pool and garden and access to Sandy Lane’s glorious beach (via a private path) as well as its legendary 18-hole golf course. The villa has six double bedrooms and many areas for dining and relaxing, including a sitting room equipped with TV, satellite, video and stereo facilities; a formal indoor dining area; and a covered veranda. The master bedroom opens onto an expansive terrace with views of the garden and the sea, while the other bedrooms open directly onto the grounds. A gated intercom entrance ensures security and privacy, and a built-in sound system provides music in all living areas. The special offer includes complimentary 5-day car rental, airport transfers, and fast-track airport service. Contact: Altman Villa Rentals.

The six-bedroom villa has many areas, both indoors and outdoors, for relaxing and entertaining. (more…)

Known for its year-round joy and vitality, the beautiful city of Seville can barely contain itself in spring, when two major festivals take place. The first is Holy Week, known here as Semana Santa (March 20–27), and the second is Feria de Abril (April 12–17), a rite of spring that revolves around music, food, and dancing. With waves of holidaymakers about to descend on the southern capital of Andalucia and guest rooms filling up fast, we were happy to hear that one of our villa specialists still has some beautiful properties available for a spring holiday in southern Spain. Two villas in particular are ideal for Holy Week: The Marquesa de Tenorio Palace, in the historic neighborhood of Santa Cruz, was originally part of the Alcazar royal palace; El Pino de San Jose Country House is located 15 kilometers from Seville in the Andalusian countryside. Both are managed exclusively by Greatness, headed by Isabel Benjumea. Every Greatness villa comes with its own staff (butlers, maids, chefs, nannies) trained by Isabel and her team. Greatness also offers a 24-hour concierge service to its clients, organizing all kinds of unique experiences and activities. For an unencumbered view of the processions that mark Semana Santa de Sevilla, Isabel recommends the balcony of El Atico Dos Fuentes, a neobaroque palace opposite the world’s largest Gothic cathedral (a World Heritage Site) and Giralda Tower. From this privileged perspective, you can look down on the floats and revelers, surrounded by the fragrance of orange blossoms. Contact Isabel for more information.

The time to visit these island escapes is now, when the northern winter is getting old and temps in the tropics are ideal. Our far-flung quartet offers loads of sun and plenty of adventure: Mauritius, above, can be combined with an African safari.

By Georgina Read

When winter’s chill and gloom get the better of you, it’s time for a fix of tropical sunshine and balmy evenings. For a lazy vacation of sunbathing, water sports, and eating sensational seafood, Barbados is your go-to destination, in particular the glamorous west coast. With 30-degree heat until the end of March and a sea temperature of 26 degrees, you’ll wade out of the ocean almost as dry as when you waded in, your skin glowing and free of goose pimples. Much appreciated by visitors for its friendly, laid-back atmosphere, Barbados has become a magnet for the mega-rich, particularly those in search of a holiday home backing onto a private white-sand beach.

With 330 kilometers of coastline, crystal blue waters, world-class golf courses, and mountainous terrain, the island of Mauritius is a popular playground for hikers, snorkelers, and outdoor sports enthusiasts. Start your holiday with a safari in South Africa, a four-hour flight away, where high summer coincides with winter in the Northern Hemisphere, drawing snowbirds with 27-degree temperatures and a maximum of 10 hours of sunshine each day.

For the ultimate escape, nothing beats a private island. Palawan, a 125-acre estate in the Philippines, combines the best of tropical living with all the comfort you’d expect from a luxury resort. The island has been singled out by Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic, and Forbes as one of the best luxury travel destinations in the world.

If one island is not enough, why not hop between 333 of them? The volcanic archipelago of Fiji, midway between Tahiti and Australia, is blessed with a hospitable climate year-round. Aboard a private catamaran, you can navigate the floating chain that stretches into both the Koro Sea and South Pacific Ocean and moor up at one island paradise after another, many of them decorated with luxury mansions and beachfront villas.

The pioneering work of primatologist Dian Fossey, author of Gorillas in the Mist, forever changed the way the world sees gorillas, contradicting the common belief that they are violent and dangerous to humans. Fossey died in December 1985, three years after the publication of her book, and was buried in a meadow near the research center that she founded in Volcanoes National Park. To mark the thirtieth anniversary her death, Volcanoes Safaris has launched two special offers for stays at their gorilla and chimpanzee lodges during March, April, May, October, November, and December of this year. Each of the two safaris is offered at a 20 percent discount if you book before March 31, 2016.

The 6-Day Mount Gahinga–Virunga Safari takes you from Kigali in Rwanda to Mount Gahinga Lodge on the Ugandan side of the Virunga volcanoes, to share the ancient heritage of the Batwa people, track the rare golden monkey, or climb a volcano. Your next stop, Virunga Lodge, is your base for tracking endangered mountain gorillas. The lodge is surrounded by magnificent volcanoes and shimmering lakes.

The 7-Day Uganda Wildlife, Gorilla, Chimpanzee and Bird Safari begins with tracking mountain gorillas at Bwindi Lodge, deep in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. From there you’ll go on game drives and boat cruises through the open savannah plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park, ending your stay at Kyambura Gorge Lodge.

Volcanoes Safaris’ special offers are valid until March 31 for travel during March, April, May, October, November, and December 2016. Please contact the Volcanoes Safaris sales team for more information.

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, we dove into our collection of romantic hideaways and came up with five destinations that are practically synonymous with love.

1) Feeling the love in Bali is as effortless as a dip in the sea. The setting of Eat Pray Love is a land of sunsets and temples, mountains and beaches. At Echo Beach in Seminyak, the crowds and thin and the rocky outcrops are laced with mist.

2) The backdrop for many a passion-filled romance, the Italian Riviera satisfies all the senses with luscious food, gorgeous scenery, and the language of Puccini.

3) Winding walkways, turquoise waters, and bright white buildings have made Santorini the go-to vacation spot for honeymooners. Spring is the best time to visit the Greek Isles, as the summer crowds have not yet flocked in.

4) It might not be the first place you think of for a romantic retreat, but Japan has stirred the hearts of countless poets and lovers with its snowcapped peaks, blushing gardens, and pink-petaled canopies.

5) While the right setting is crucial when it comes to romance, so is the right tempo. On laid-back Maui, the rhythm is slow, ideal for staying in bed till noon or watching the sun rise from the top of Haleakala. —Georgina Read